Milano Moda Uomo Spring 2009
Day 1: June 22, 2008 Evening

While Imadge was attending Versace and Evisu with Lisa, I went to see Les Hommes and Romeo Gigli. This is my freshman season in Milan and I am finding out that we have to play things by ear a lot, not because we don’t like to plan but because things change so fast.

I was supposed to shoot Evisu, but because a commitment was made to see Romeo Gigli, one of us had to go. Because the girls really like Evisu, and being the gentleman that I am, I volunteered to go to Romeo Gigli, which I would say was not really a bad choice.

Surprisingly enough, though I missed Versace, Les Hommes and Romeo Gigli were good shows. I guess Lisa Helm is right in saying that it is really hard to choose which show to see and not to see because all of them are important. And an added bonus, I met Sara, an American student studying fashion in Milan. I told her of my predicament, i.e., writing so she wrote these for me.

Les Hommes: Dynamic and Paradoxical
By: Sara Conde

Japan, country of the Rising Sun, home of the ninja and the samurai, one of the oldest cultures in the world; the country we know today is a far cry from the time when the bushido code is the highest law of the land. Yet, movies like Kill Bill remind us of that time. Set in a modern world, the movie became Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, the design duo behind Les Homme inspiration for Spring / Summer 2009.

A collection that is thoroughly modern, with no signs of even being retro; yet the future, the past and the present flow and blend in one single moment. A paradox perhaps, but a beautiful paradox nonetheless, as the frenetic modernity of today merges seamlessly with the intensity and passion of the past.

Predominantly done in silk, organza and blended wool, Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch drew shapes and form from the battle uniforms of the samurai. Translating the warlike yet elaborate design into sleek silhouettes that are slender, a graphic effect with just a slash, a triangle or a solid line became the accent that draws the eye was added.

The martial arts jacket and the traditional hakama trousers were both reworked and in turn defined the character of the collection. As an added bonus, a series of sports shoes that is youthful and eye catching added to the dynamic quality of the collection.

Romeo Gigli: Defying the Big Fashion Machine
By: Sara Conde

Surprisingly authentic and original, Gentucca Bini, designing for Romeo Gigli proposes a transformation, i.e., menswear based on womenswear, without the requisite sequins and bows.

The press notes said that the collection is an ideogram with a touch of Mod and Japanese origami. Bini did her homework. It’s obvious from the resulting looks that a lot of research had been done. This collection might not reflect what the mainstream market wants, even what the niche market desires; but Bini was very successful in creating a silhouette that is novel and arguably, groundbreaking.

Perhaps, as fashion pundits and fashion followers, we have become enslaved to trends. Maybe, everyone had been reading the same trends books or even commission the services of the same coolhunters.

So, when an established fashion house like Romeo Gigli proposes something that is not mentioned in the trend book, it felt like an affront to our senses. Yet, quite frankly, Bini did something very brave, i.e., defy the big fashion machine!

Again, quoting the press notes, the collection is “as contradictive as it is strict: apparently wintry, yet summery in substance. Items are lightweight, shapes are always comfortable, but construction is much more conceptual than in previous seasons.”

Actually, that says it all as Bini, as a result of accurate technical research had transformed the more common structure into something unheard-of. Tartan, Prince of Wales and checks will garner a previously unknown sense for next summer.

An added attraction, the shoes! Footwear is light, in soft leather and bi-coloured: sky blue and white or grey and white. Slightly retro, laced, but able to lose their toes and become sabots.

[NAPSTER]